16 Comments

Thanks for sharing! Pants are a great example; to me there is no "perfect fit" even if I think I know what I'm aiming for. Are these pants for standing, sitting, or moving? Are they keeping me warm or cool? Do I need the hem to stay out of my bike chain? What shape and size is my body compared to last week (or this morning)? Chances are I'm doing some combination of those things while navigating by own body variability, and the same pant made 12 different ways (with different fabrics) will excel in different categories. I've definitely been disappointed with fit after making pants only to pick them up later when circumstances change. I've changed the way I think about fit too in terms of what the wearer wants, and notice much more the coded language that gets used to describe fit (like "slimming" and "flattering").

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Yes!! 1000% agree! Fit is context dependent, which is something that is never acknowledged by most fitting guides. As you so eloquently put it, fit changes based on fabric, style, body movement, time of day, and all the other variables you mentioned. Once I finally realized how nuanced fit can be, it opened up a whole world of exploration and discovery. 💡

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Stacey, what you have written feels revolutionary but shouldn’t be. You have called out many nefarious systemic issues in our “hobby”. Kudos.

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Beautifully written Stacey! Looking forward to the day you teach a Seattle class.

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I’m working on some workshop options a little closer to home, so stay tuned! 🤫

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Yes yes yes!!!

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So excited for this fitting series, I love your approach! Your TDCO videos really helped me when I made my first pair of pants and I’ve come to love sewing them the most of any garment. There’s so many ways to improve and play with fit.

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Totally! I love making pants because there are so many ways to experiment with different fit, fabrics, styles, etc. I always learn something new, it never gets old! 😊

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Hey Stacey! Great points being made here. As an industry vet I will say I didn’t learn fitting through any of these books, but exactly as you say, through practice in fitting: iterative fittings on the same bodies at different times, and fitting the body in different positions and movements.

I’m also happy to see you ask for more latitude in learning- practice is everything! ❤️

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What a read! Thank you for helping me to make sense of the reason I feel so incredibly down about myself each time I try to fit any garment. Struggling with learning is not new to me, so I simply put it down to that, but in actual fact my expectations, which are based on what I’m reading and seeing even before I start fitting, are exacerbating this issue. I can’t control what others publish but I can actively alter my mindset prior to embarking on my next project. Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this, it seems so obvious now that you’ve articulated it, yet I didn’t even notice the influence at the time.

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Thank you so much for your thoughtful words. Removal of the word “perfect” from fitting is spot-on. I have most of the books you pictured but continue to be disappointed in how my fit is not perfect. Have a wonderful class with those lucky students!

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Finally, I found a reference that suggested that as a optimization for that part of the anatomy, and felt an immediate sense that I had actually been learning something about fitting.

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Thank you, Stacey! Well put. I began using the Top Down Center Out method after reading your blog, and even though it IS a fabulous method, I wanted to continue exploring to tweak the fit after gaining a few pounds. I often wondered why conventional flat pattern techniques for fitting around a tummy very often call attention to it by the very method of altering the pattern. It seemed to me that one might be able to create enough room by extending the length front crotch curve on many styles, and it would also be much more flattering. However, I looked through at least 5 fitting and flat pattern books, and no one suggested that.

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Thank you for all you do. I wish these body neutral fitting tools had been around in the beginning of me sewing a handmade wardrobe in earnest. I tried two pants patterns early on that are notoriously hard to fit and just got frustrated. My body changed with menopause and I’ve only made elastic waist pants since. I’m ready to try hard pants that fit WELL and comfortably with top down center out

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It really resonnates to me! I would also add that I've found myself more exigent toward my makes compared to bought clothes, especially about fitting. It's hard self criticism I'm working on ; making is a hobby, I'm making nice stuff, and I'm learning!! Sewing teaches me about myself (and that I still have a long road to reach self acceptance). Thank you for sharing your toughts.

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Stacey, as always, your thinking is so ahead of the curve and spot on. You’ve helped me name the feelings of irritation and exasperation that come up when I’m attempting to get the “perfect” fit on an item (most often FBA related adjustments to shirts) and don’t get it. I love reframing the goal to be about the process. Seems so logical and also revolutionary. Thank you!

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