Thanks for sharing! Pants are a great example; to me there is no "perfect fit" even if I think I know what I'm aiming for. Are these pants for standing, sitting, or moving? Are they keeping me warm or cool? Do I need the hem to stay out of my bike chain? What shape and size is my body compared to last week (or this morning)? Chances are I'm doing some combination of those things while navigating by own body variability, and the same pant made 12 different ways (with different fabrics) will excel in different categories. I've definitely been disappointed with fit after making pants only to pick them up later when circumstances change. I've changed the way I think about fit too in terms of what the wearer wants, and notice much more the coded language that gets used to describe fit (like "slimming" and "flattering").
Yes!! 1000% agree! Fit is context dependent, which is something that is never acknowledged by most fitting guides. As you so eloquently put it, fit changes based on fabric, style, body movement, time of day, and all the other variables you mentioned. Once I finally realized how nuanced fit can be, it opened up a whole world of exploration and discovery. 💡
I'll be teaching at the Medomak Retreat center near Washington, ME. The retreat is organized by Samantha Hoyt (@agatheringofstitches on IG). I'll put more info in my next newsletter but you can find out more at www.agatheringofstitches.com. Registration opens up in March to Sam's newsletter subscribers.
Ha, also realize that I got confused because Substack offered this up to me like it was a new post, so I was thinking "next week" meant right now. I have just realized this post was written last August. I was wondering why I didn't know about the midwinter sewing retreat!
So excited for this fitting series, I love your approach! Your TDCO videos really helped me when I made my first pair of pants and I’ve come to love sewing them the most of any garment. There’s so many ways to improve and play with fit.
Totally! I love making pants because there are so many ways to experiment with different fit, fabrics, styles, etc. I always learn something new, it never gets old! 😊
Hey Stacey! Great points being made here. As an industry vet I will say I didn’t learn fitting through any of these books, but exactly as you say, through practice in fitting: iterative fittings on the same bodies at different times, and fitting the body in different positions and movements.
I’m also happy to see you ask for more latitude in learning- practice is everything! ❤️
What a read! Thank you for helping me to make sense of the reason I feel so incredibly down about myself each time I try to fit any garment. Struggling with learning is not new to me, so I simply put it down to that, but in actual fact my expectations, which are based on what I’m reading and seeing even before I start fitting, are exacerbating this issue. I can’t control what others publish but I can actively alter my mindset prior to embarking on my next project. Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this, it seems so obvious now that you’ve articulated it, yet I didn’t even notice the influence at the time.
To be honest, I don’t know what I don’t know. I want to learn, tho, and was just about your YouTube series. I’ve also just joined this Substack so I look forward to all of this!!
Substack served this up to me this morning, 8 months after you wrote it. Nevertheless it’s a refreshing take on an old problem. I love your focus on the process, I think of myself as a “process” knitter, quilter, etc, but never looked at sewing clothes that way, I’ve always been a “project sewer”. I’m going to take a step back and enjoy the process.
As a sewing teacher I have encouraged my students to learn fitting through a series of wearable toiles, my mantra is “you aren’t making a dress/shirt/trousers you are learning to make it”. I should treat myself like a student.
I'd also note that "perfect fit" doesn't exist because there are multiple, somewhat competing dimensions -- comfort, style lines, aesthetic preferences (like "flattering") -- and there isn't a right choice for prioritization. Different pants (even of the same pattern, in the same fabric by the same maker) may have different priorities!
Back when I bought RTW pants, I owned my fav chinos across 3 sizes. In part for comfortably body fluctuations, but mostly because I found a cut that worked for me and sometimes I want to prioritize "aesthetics" and sometimes comfort! Not that the smaller sizes were uncomfortable, but rather that an inch of ease can go a long way in actually getting dressed in hard pants while sitting in my home office all day. HA
Thank you so much for your thoughtful words. Removal of the word “perfect” from fitting is spot-on. I have most of the books you pictured but continue to be disappointed in how my fit is not perfect. Have a wonderful class with those lucky students!
Finally, I found a reference that suggested that as a optimization for that part of the anatomy, and felt an immediate sense that I had actually been learning something about fitting.
Thank you, Stacey! Well put. I began using the Top Down Center Out method after reading your blog, and even though it IS a fabulous method, I wanted to continue exploring to tweak the fit after gaining a few pounds. I often wondered why conventional flat pattern techniques for fitting around a tummy very often call attention to it by the very method of altering the pattern. It seemed to me that one might be able to create enough room by extending the length front crotch curve on many styles, and it would also be much more flattering. However, I looked through at least 5 fitting and flat pattern books, and no one suggested that.
Thanks for sharing! Pants are a great example; to me there is no "perfect fit" even if I think I know what I'm aiming for. Are these pants for standing, sitting, or moving? Are they keeping me warm or cool? Do I need the hem to stay out of my bike chain? What shape and size is my body compared to last week (or this morning)? Chances are I'm doing some combination of those things while navigating by own body variability, and the same pant made 12 different ways (with different fabrics) will excel in different categories. I've definitely been disappointed with fit after making pants only to pick them up later when circumstances change. I've changed the way I think about fit too in terms of what the wearer wants, and notice much more the coded language that gets used to describe fit (like "slimming" and "flattering").
Yes!! 1000% agree! Fit is context dependent, which is something that is never acknowledged by most fitting guides. As you so eloquently put it, fit changes based on fabric, style, body movement, time of day, and all the other variables you mentioned. Once I finally realized how nuanced fit can be, it opened up a whole world of exploration and discovery. 💡
Stacey, what you have written feels revolutionary but shouldn’t be. You have called out many nefarious systemic issues in our “hobby”. Kudos.
Practice over perfection has become such a driving force for almost everything I do. (Where are you teaching in Maine this/next week??)
100% agree!
I'll be teaching at the Medomak Retreat center near Washington, ME. The retreat is organized by Samantha Hoyt (@agatheringofstitches on IG). I'll put more info in my next newsletter but you can find out more at www.agatheringofstitches.com. Registration opens up in March to Sam's newsletter subscribers.
Ha, also realize that I got confused because Substack offered this up to me like it was a new post, so I was thinking "next week" meant right now. I have just realized this post was written last August. I was wondering why I didn't know about the midwinter sewing retreat!
Oh, yes! I'm on her newsletter list already. Thank you!
Beautifully written Stacey! Looking forward to the day you teach a Seattle class.
I’m working on some workshop options a little closer to home, so stay tuned! 🤫
Yes yes yes!!!
So excited for this fitting series, I love your approach! Your TDCO videos really helped me when I made my first pair of pants and I’ve come to love sewing them the most of any garment. There’s so many ways to improve and play with fit.
Totally! I love making pants because there are so many ways to experiment with different fit, fabrics, styles, etc. I always learn something new, it never gets old! 😊
Hey Stacey! Great points being made here. As an industry vet I will say I didn’t learn fitting through any of these books, but exactly as you say, through practice in fitting: iterative fittings on the same bodies at different times, and fitting the body in different positions and movements.
I’m also happy to see you ask for more latitude in learning- practice is everything! ❤️
What a read! Thank you for helping me to make sense of the reason I feel so incredibly down about myself each time I try to fit any garment. Struggling with learning is not new to me, so I simply put it down to that, but in actual fact my expectations, which are based on what I’m reading and seeing even before I start fitting, are exacerbating this issue. I can’t control what others publish but I can actively alter my mindset prior to embarking on my next project. Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this, it seems so obvious now that you’ve articulated it, yet I didn’t even notice the influence at the time.
To be honest, I don’t know what I don’t know. I want to learn, tho, and was just about your YouTube series. I’ve also just joined this Substack so I look forward to all of this!!
Substack served this up to me this morning, 8 months after you wrote it. Nevertheless it’s a refreshing take on an old problem. I love your focus on the process, I think of myself as a “process” knitter, quilter, etc, but never looked at sewing clothes that way, I’ve always been a “project sewer”. I’m going to take a step back and enjoy the process.
As a sewing teacher I have encouraged my students to learn fitting through a series of wearable toiles, my mantra is “you aren’t making a dress/shirt/trousers you are learning to make it”. I should treat myself like a student.
Love your thoughts, Thank you, and the Julia child snippet was also perfect !
Excellent and thoughtful piece on the relentless burden of chasing perfection.
Yes times 100!
I'd also note that "perfect fit" doesn't exist because there are multiple, somewhat competing dimensions -- comfort, style lines, aesthetic preferences (like "flattering") -- and there isn't a right choice for prioritization. Different pants (even of the same pattern, in the same fabric by the same maker) may have different priorities!
Back when I bought RTW pants, I owned my fav chinos across 3 sizes. In part for comfortably body fluctuations, but mostly because I found a cut that worked for me and sometimes I want to prioritize "aesthetics" and sometimes comfort! Not that the smaller sizes were uncomfortable, but rather that an inch of ease can go a long way in actually getting dressed in hard pants while sitting in my home office all day. HA
Thank you so much for your thoughtful words. Removal of the word “perfect” from fitting is spot-on. I have most of the books you pictured but continue to be disappointed in how my fit is not perfect. Have a wonderful class with those lucky students!
Finally, I found a reference that suggested that as a optimization for that part of the anatomy, and felt an immediate sense that I had actually been learning something about fitting.
Thank you, Stacey! Well put. I began using the Top Down Center Out method after reading your blog, and even though it IS a fabulous method, I wanted to continue exploring to tweak the fit after gaining a few pounds. I often wondered why conventional flat pattern techniques for fitting around a tummy very often call attention to it by the very method of altering the pattern. It seemed to me that one might be able to create enough room by extending the length front crotch curve on many styles, and it would also be much more flattering. However, I looked through at least 5 fitting and flat pattern books, and no one suggested that.